Now it was time to let all the wounds heal. The body as well as the soul. We went to a beautiful hotel, La Toubana, high up on a cliff, close to the sea. It was rejuvenating to sleep in a real bed or outside, surrounded by green palm trees and beautiful flowers. We both needed to be pampered by the staff. Delicious detox drinks did the rest. Every day we were driven down to the beach and just relaxed to the full. A nurse came once a day and changed the dressing of the wounds. A real treat was when a hair dresser came to our room, mounted her mobile lavatory and washed the hair so softly. It was a treat for the damaged head.
The strength came back day by day and the wounds started to heal. With the friendly help of Morgane and the other nurses, we got in contact with a nurse-team that could come to the boat. We are impressed by the home visits of nurses and doctors on Guadeloupe. With this help, it was easier to decide to go back to Ydalir.
So, on Thursday the eleventh we left La Toubana and got back to Ydalir in Marina Bas du Fort. At first, Anders and friends turned Ydalir around so she got the stern to the pontoon, then we could borrow a gangwayl from Muse, the neighbour catamaran. We were so happy to be back, both together on Ydalir a week after the awful accident.
Anders hangs the hammock on deck and brings a delicious and refreshing breakfast to Nilla. He also buys a gangway and drills and mounts it to Ydalir so Nilla and nurses easily can walk back and forth.
On Valentines day, Jörn and Jill from Norway, asked if we liked to join them for a lunch at the Memorial ACTe museum. We liked the idea and when we came to the restaurant we were surrounded by happy creole jazz music. What a feast with laughter, love and timeless tones.
The memorial ACTe museum has the mission to “fertilise the encounter of history and memory” and tells the history of slavery from ancient history to modern times very engagingly. It´s mind opening and sensitising in a compassionating way. We learned that slavery was abolished in France in 1794, but Napoleon reinstated it 1802. Not until 1848 it was abolished for good. We can really recommend this modern museum that combines art and reflections with memories to keep the dialog alive.
The restaurants at Marina Bas du Fort are really good, especially the one closest to our dock, Quai Oest, is excellent. So is the rum, the real “Rhum Artisenal” on Guadeloupe too and it seems to give a healing kick as well. One evening when we were on the way back to Ydalir, we heard a woman speak finish on the phone, so we stopped and said hei. As we told her where we came from, she immediately asked if Nilla was Nilla. She had read about the accident in the newspapers.
We had a very nice night together with the Gouadeloupian nurse, Morgane and her family, but soon it was time for us to leave the marina and go out on anchorage. On Wednesday the 24th of Februar, we let the lines loose and Nilla drove Ydalir out of the Marina. We had to swap responsibilities due to the circumstances. It was a shaking experience to be out on sea again, rocking the waves the short distance of 2NM to Ile Gosier. We found a good anchorage between the island and the village of La Gosier. But after the short adventure, Nilla slept for four hours!
The next day we accepted the challenge to jump into the dinghy and drove to Ile Gosier, a tiny island with a lighthouse, a bar and beautiful palm trees. It was perfect to have lunch among all geese, hens, roosters and iguanas and afterward a nap in the hammock. Life is good!
Meanwhile there were strikes on the roads on Guadeloupe and it was impossible to drive from one town to another for two days. We also heard the news that the restrictions should increase on the first of March. We thought we should check the possibility to leave Guadeloupe and go to Dominica. We got in contact with an agent on Dominica and got the advice, to take a PCR-test and ask the authorities for permission. Dominica opened the boarders three weeks ago, but only 30 yachts are allowed. Those arriving have to stay in quarantine on the boat for five days and then take a second PCR test. We tried to make everything possible to leave. Thanks to our friendly nurse, Morgane, we got in contact with a nurse whom we met in La Gosier. She easily took the PCR test in her car on a parking lot. We are amazed by the rapid flexibility of the health system here.
After the testing we could enjoy the Friday Fruit market in La Gosier and restock our pineapple, red banana and mango reserves. The fruits are local, fresh and so fruity!
We have had some really good local food in Guadeloupe, or “wada lubben”, meaning hidden river in Andalusian Arabic. For example, Accras – some crispy, puffy, tender fritters. There is also Colombo – a spicy chicken curry. We even tried Bokit – a sandwich frites filled with all yummy things you like.
Leaving the “hidden rivers”, which we came much to close to, we have to check out of Guadeloupe in the Marina at Point-a-Pitre. On the way there, the anchor “inlet” got damaged and the exhaust hose got loose from our Nanny engine. Luckily Anders could fix it in the berth. Now we are welcome in Dominica and ready to leave early in the morning. Goodbye Guadeloupe – we hope we will be back one day. Thanks for all friendly help and Good Love!